How to BAR Your 2AR Swapped SW20 MR2
This guide provides information on swapping a 2AR-FE into a manual transmission SW20 MR2, and getting the swap BAR CA legal. This guide will provide information on using a Scion tC 2011-2016 as a donor chassis and not a Toyota Camry. There are far more manual Scion tCs out there which simplifies gathering of the parts for the swap.
Before you go buying parts please read Appendix D in the smog check reference guide. That section covers the rules and guidelines regarding legal engine changes. If you have questions regarding the rules please give the referee's office a call and they will be able to get a referee to speak with you and answer any questions you have.
Terms/Acronyms
BAR - Bureau of Automotive Repair
EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control System
Cat - Catalytic Converter
CVN - Calibration Verification Number
CalID - Calibration ID
Marc - Frankenstein Motorworks
BAR Engine Changes
For those unfamiliar with a BAR engine change, California offers us the opportunity to legally swap your engine through BAR for a newer, more modern setup. This not only eliminates the concern of passing smog tests for your engine-swapped vehicle, as it can now be smogged without issues, but it also grants you access to a modern powerplant with readily available parts. Plus, you get to brag about it to all your friends!
A brief overview of what a 2AR-FE BAR engine change involves for an SW20.
Keep the original transmission from the SW20.
Integrate the Scion tC’s EVAP system with the SW20’s EVAP system.
Use the stock intake box and snorkel from the tC.
Use the stock exhaust manifold and catalytic converters from the tC.
Use a stock, untuned ECU from the donor vehicle, with ALL monitors passing, and no CEL or fault codes.
Receive an invoice from a Toyota dealership confirming that the installed software on the ECU is indeed valid, along with the ECU CVN numbers on the invoice.
Install an OBD2 port in the cabin of the SW20, under the dash on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
VIN
The VIN on the ECU indicates the configuration that BAR will base the entire swap on. The motor that I purchased was from a manual 2014 Scion tC, so I took the VIN from the engine block and asked Marc at Frankenstein Motorworks to write that VIN to my ECU while removing the immobilizer. This was not a necessary step, any ECU that Marc can provide for a swap will already have a VIN from a manual tC. Some may buy an entire donor manual transmission Scion tC from a salvage auction, or some may choose to piece things together (like myself). When piecing it together be sure to run the VIN through Toyota’s VIN decoder (or ToyoDIY if that is down) in order to confirm the VIN is from a manual Scion tC. More info regarding the VIN is in the ECU section.
ENGINE
The 2AR-FE came in the Toyota Camry, RAV4, and Scion tC in the USDM. You may use any 2AR-FE from any of those vehicles, but because we are using a Scion tC 2011-2016 as our donor configuration, you must pair the 2AR-FE with a manual Scion tC ECU as well as tC emissions, intake, and exhaust components. More details about the ECU are down below.
As previously stated, we are using the second generation Scion tC 2011-2016 range of donor vehicles, however, 2014-2016 will be “easier” to use now that I have gotten an MR2 through the process using that year range of tC donors. There are now photo references of a 2014 Scion tC that referees will refer to during your inspection. Additionally, the exhaust manifold for the Scion tC model years 2014-2016 model is cheaper compared to the 2011-2013 models.
2014 Scion tC 2AR-FE
To get the 2AR-FE into the SW20 chassis, you can use the Frankenstein Motorworks 2AR-FE SW20 Motor Mount. This mount bolts to the front of the motor on the timing cover and is a full replacement of the stock 2AR-FE mount.
The gold circled bolts are torqued to 41 ft-lbs.
The blue circled bolt gets torqued to 15 ft-lbs.
The rubber isolator that bolts into the chassis is torqued to 58 ft-lbs.
The nuts that bolt to the studs into the isolator are torqued to 45 ft-lbs.
Drivetrain
The stock MR2 drivetrain can be bolted to the 2AR. Because we are working with an pre-OBD2 chassis, we are not required to keep the transmission from the donor car. A list of hardware needed per transmission as well as the clutch kit info is provided below. One of the holes on the 2AR will need to be threaded as shown here in the blue circle in the second image.
This hole may be threadable outright or in need of a threaded insert, such as a helicoil or timesert. This will depend on the block you get.
1991-1992 E153 Hardware
2 x M12x1.25mm 55mm
1 x M12x1.25mm 70mm
1 x M10x1.25mm 35mm
1993+ E153 Hardware
3 x M12x1.25mm 55mm
1 x M12x1.25mm 70mm
3 x M10x1.25mm 35mm
E351 Hardware
1 x M12x1.25mm 70mm
2 x M12x1.25mm 55mm
1 x M10x1.25mm 50mm
1 x M10x1.25mm 60mm
1 x M10x1.25mm 35mm
1991-1992 S54 Hardware (Hole under the starter needs to be enlarged to 12mm)
1 x M12x1.25mm 55mm
1 x M12x1.25mm 70mm
1 x M10x1.25mm 35mm
Torque
M12 bolts to 47 ft-lbs
M10 bolts to 34 ft-lbs
Note, these hardware lengths are based on the 2GR-FE hardware sizing. However, I used the same bolt lengths from the 2GR-FE with the 2AR-FE. There is a chance however these lengths are wrong and/or your transmission is not listed. If that is the case, then use a depth gauge to measure the bolt hole depth. Round down to the nearest 5mm interval then subtract an additional 5mm, use that number to order correct length bolts. If more precise hardware is found, I will update this guide.Recommended Flywheels
Stock 2AR-FE Flywheel (Toyota PN 13405-28020)
Heavy, slower revving, easier clutch engagement
ACT XACT Prolite (ACT PN 600390)
Lighter, faster revving, and shifting slightly more difficult clutch control
Note: There are other flywheels available for the 2AR-FE however these two are known good quality units.
Recommended Clutches
E series (E153, E350, E351, etc.)
Frankenstein Motorworks E series clutch kit, available in either organic or ceramic material.
Organic has more than enough clamping force for a naturally aspirated 2AR-FE build.
Ceramic is slightly more difficult to actuate, though this clutch has a marcel spring which helps significantly.
S series (S54, etc.)
South Bend K16062/16073-HD-O
Piece together your choice of S series clutch and E series pressure plate, both rated for 250lb*ft or higher.
Clutch Hardware
Flywheel bolts: ARP 103-2801 or Toyota 90105-12322
Pressure plate: ARP 103-2201 or Toyota 90119-08079
Axles
S series (S54, etc.)
Standard SW20 NA axles
Wide-diff E series (E53, E153, E250, etc.)
Standard SW20 Turbo axles
Right side axle carrier bearing bracket currently unknown. Check back later.
Narrow-diff E series (E350, E351, etc.)
Follow Alex Wilhelm’s guide on axle setup for E351/2gr-fe/SW20
Right side axle carrier bearing bracket currently unknown. Check back later.
Note, it seems all aftermarket throwout bearings are not worth using, I would highly recommend buying a new OEM unit from Toyota.Fuel System
To BAR a 2AR-FE, an in-tank static regulator and a returnless-style fuel system like the Scion tC is required. This requires you to install a fuel pressure regulator on the hanger assembly inside the fuel tank to mimic the Scion tC’s fuel system, run a single fuel feed hose from the tank, and cap off the old return line. I used a fuel regulator out of a 1996-2000 RAV4. I have seen an in-tank regulator out of a 90s Camry used as well. Any regulator will work as long as it’s in the tank and has a fixed pressure and is non-adjustable.
I ground one of the regulator’s barbs to fit a hose over the end. I also cut the return port down to install a return hose (return hose not pictured). There are other regulators out there that can work.
RAV4 Fuel Regulator: Toyota 23280-74160 (This part is discontinued, you will have to find one used at a junkyard)
To set up the fuel lines, run a single feed line from the fuel filter to the 2AR-FE fuel rail. The fuel filter has an M12x1.25 thread for the inlet and outlet. Using either an M12x1.25 to 5/16” hose barb or an M12x1.25 to AN6 adapter and running an AN hose to the fuel rail will work. I did a hybrid of both because my fuel filter is not in the stock location. The stock fuel filter feed line from the tank can be used if it’s in good shape and if your fuel filter is in the stock location.
For those that go with the AN6 hose route, EARLS 751156ERL will be needed in order to adapt the fuel rail to AN6. With this fitting, the OEM fitting is replaced entirely, and an AN6 feed line can be made to fit.
For the hose barb method, some 2AR-FEs will come with a snipped OEM fuel hose. I cut back the outer rubber layer, left the pressed-on nylon hose, and slid a 5/16” EFI fuel hose over the nylon hose (Shown in gold).
For those that get a 2AR without this OEM fitting, and would like to run the OEM fitting, the P/N is Toyota 23901-36041.
EVAP System
This is one of the harder parts of the swap to get perfect. Getting the tC EVAP system to work in conjunction with the SW20 EVAP system requires some creativity but I will do my best to explain the functionality of the system and explain what is needed to be done.
Scion tC EVAP System Diagram
On modern Toyota vehicles, the EVAP system is much more complex than our 90s cars. The biggest difference is now modern vehicles run a self-EVAP test overnight when the vehicle is off. Inside the charcoal canister, there is a little vane pump that will draw a vacuum on the entire EVAP system to ensure the system is sealed and there are no leaks. If there is a leak, you will wake up with a P0455 or P0456 code.
Because we are allowed to keep our MR2 EVAP system, all we need to do is hook up the Scion tC charcoal canister electronically and also properly plumb the purge hose, breather hose, and vent hose.
Scion tC EVAP Canister Diagram
*1 goes to the fuel tank breather
*2 goes to the purge solenoid
*3 sees open air through a filter
*4 is the electrical connector
How I Did It
In my case, I wanted to keep a very clean, “shaved” swap, so I decided to put the Scion tC EVAP canister in the frunk of the SW20. I modified the stock tC canister mounts to fit some threaded holes in the SW20. I also ran a small sub-harness from the canister to the ECU in the trunk.
Cyan - Tank Breather
Gold - Purge Hose
Blue - Canister Vent Filter (not pictured in the second image)
A filter needs to be installed on the canister vent in order to prevent little critters and dirt/dust from clogging the canister vent. I took the filter from the tC’s fuel filler neck and installed it on the canister, the part number is listed below. These filters are found on many different Toyota vehicles, however.
I ran new 5/16” aluminum hardlines between the frunk and engine bay. One for the fuel tank breather, one for the purge solenoid. They run right over the fuel tank in place of the original heater feed line. I removed my brass heater feed line so I had room here. (This is sometimes called the “NSX heater mod”) This step may be necessary to run these new EVAP lines along the top of the fuel tank, but you can also run them under the fuel tank. This is where you can express your creativity!
Cyan - Tank Breather
Gold - Purge Line
And here’s how the lines hook into the SW20 system. The breather hose just goes into the stock breather port on the EVAP dumpling. The purge hose goes to the purge solenoid on the intake elbow.
Cyan - Tank Breather
Gold - Purge Hose
My method is in no way the only way to do this. As long as you plumb the canister correctly and have no leaks it should work just fine. Some may want to put the canister in the trunk for easier wiring, and plumbing.
One important note, these canisters are level sensitive, meaning it has to be completely horizontal. Position the canister on its side, with the vent barb on the rear side of the SW20, similar to how I have installed mine or the Scion tC.I HIGHLY suggest buying new EVAP hoses and gaskets for the fuel tank. My old gaskets and hoses were in horrible condition. For all rubber EVAP hoses, you must use a fuel/emissions-rated hose. Those hoses will be labeled “fuel hose” or something similar. If you do not replace these gaskets, do not be surprised when you wake up to an EVAP leak code. I would also suggest buying a new gas cap. I used a brand new Toyota one from a Scion tC. The threads match, it is a direct fit. The stock MR2 gas cap should work too though.
Fuel Tank Neck Breather Hose - 3/8” Diameter. Large hose connected to the fuel filler neck. Any Fuel/EVAP hose of that size will work.
Fuel Pump Hanger Seal - Toyota 77169-17010
Fuel Tank Filler Neck Seal - Toyota 77178-20010
Fuel Tank Level Sender Seal - Toyota 77169-14020
Fuel Tank Breather Seals x 2 Needed - Toyota 77179-26010
Scion tC Gas Cap - Toyota 77300-53020
Canister Filter - Toyota 77745-0E010
Scion tC EVAP Canister - 77740-21020
Electrical
Engine Harness
For wiring harness work I’d recommend going to Woodsport for your wiring needs. Woodsport offers a patch harness that is a direct plug-and-play harness called the WASP harness that allows the use of a stock Scion tC harness with no modification.
This patch harness does not require you to ship out your harness. Any questions about this patch harness should be directed to Paul Woods at Woodsport.
If you would like to complete the wiring yourself, the Scion tC wiring diagram is available here, you can modify an existing Scion tC wiring harness or build one from scratch following the diagram.
An additional harness component will be needed. The EVAP canister has some sensors and a vacuum pump inside of it that require some wiring work. You will need to create an additional sub-harness that includes the plug for the tC EVAP canister.
If you wish to make your own harness, the connector plug/body is Toyota 90980-12520.
*A small modification will need to be done to a tC harness if you use the AC setup from this guide. Said modification is noted in the AC section.
As of recently, it seems the Woodsport WASP harness for the 2AR is no longer available. You will have to create your own patch harness or modify an existing 2AR-FE harness to suit your needs.
Tachometer
You will need to convert your tachometer to a 12V system. This requires one resistor to be changed on the tachometer assembly. Replacing the capacitors is recommended too. Frankenstein Motorworks sells a little kit that comes with the needed resistor and capacitor.
Throttle Pedal
You will also need to change the old and ancient cable throttle pedal to a new drive-by-wire pedal. FrankensteinMotorworks has us covered again here. The wiring for the pedal will be included in the WASP harness from Woodsport.
If you opt for the BRZ or IS Sport (pictured) pedal face and want a matching clutch and brake, Toyota 31321-53010 is a suitable replacement for the stock clutch and brake pedal faces.
ECU
Because the BAR engine change process requires you to use an untuned, stock ECU, you MUST use a stock Scion tC ECU with a VIN number that matches a Scion tC with a manual transmission. I asked Marc at Frankenstein Motorworks for mine as he usually has some bone stock ECUs laying on his shelf. Marc simply reverted the immobilizer to the factory state, removing the need for the immobilizer and associated wiring, and wrote the VIN of my motor. Since Marc only uses manual ECUs for his tuned models, a manual VIN ECU is easy to obtain through him and I would suggest going that route. You will just need to confirm which version of the tC the VIN corresponds with (2011-2013 or 2014-2016) for your exhaust manifold. These are the brackets needed to mount the ECU in the trunk.
Reverting the immobilizer like this DOES NOT affect any of the ECU calibrations or engine behavior. This is merely setting the ECU back to a pairing state that Toyota sets them when they are brand new. If you have purchased a donor tC, you can keep the immobilizer system from there.
ECU Invoice
I mentioned earlier that the EVAP system is one of the harder parts of the swap, and the ECU invoice is probably the hardest part. Part of the BAR process requires you to go to a dealership to receive an invoice stating the Cal ID and CVN numbers that are currently present on the ECU. You will then need to send a photo of this invoice to a referee in order to start your inspection process.
This part of the BAR swap is difficult because some dealers don't know what to hand over when they're asked for this invoice. You need to explain to them the process you are undergoing and what you need from them specifically. You may have to go back and forth a few times with a dealer to get the correct invoice.
Cal ID
The CalID is the ECU’s current calibration number. There are two numbers in our case, one for the hardware and one for the software calibration. These are the numbers Toyota is able to confirm for you.
CVN
The CVN is the calibration verification number. This is a checksum to confirm what tune/calibration is currently on the ECU. There are also two CVNs here. Toyota will not be able to confirm the CVN but the invoice must contain those numbers.
If you’d like to learn more about Cal IDs and CVNs, here’s a good page on the topic. The point of providing these numbers to BAR is for them to ensure you are not passing a tuned ECU through the BAR inspection process. The referees will also check these numbers on your ECU on the day of your inspection to confirm they match what you sent previously.
E-VIN
You will also need to have the dealer state the VIN that is on the ECU. They can easily pull this information.
Here is a scan of my invoice from Toyota. You can see it includes the VIN on the ECU, confirmation that the Cal IDs on the ECU are correct, and the CVN numbers.
Cooling System
Unlike the 2GR-FE, there is no aluminum outlet neck to weld a radiator cap onto, but with the recent release of Wilhelm Racework’s expansion tank, this is no longer an issue. His blog as the installation notes needed. The only difference is he is running a 2GR whereas we are running a 2AR.
The heater return line is highlighted in blue. You will tee into this hose for the expansion tank with a 5/8” hose.
The stock 2AR-FE outlet water neck will not fit in the SW20 chassis as it will cause the hose to crash into the firewall. I used these parts to hook the 2AR-FE into the stock SW20 cooling system.
Water Neck: Dorman 902-5930
Lower/Passenger Hose: GATES 22556
Upper/Drivers Hose: GATES 21760
Heater Return: GATES 19306
Heater Feed: GATES 28469
Note, all of these hoses will need to be trimmed to fit. These images aren't entirely to scale, but they give an idea of what needs to be removed and test fitted. 
GATES 21760 (Gold) - Trim about 1-1.5 inches off from the highlighted leg. (Untrimmed in photo)
GATES 22556 (Cyan) - Trim about 1 inch off from the short leg. Trim the longer leg section that includes the sticker. (Untrimmed in photo)
GATES 19306 (Blue) - Trim a bit off the short leg. Trim the long leg off so that the hose is parallel to the shorter leg.
GATES 28469 (N/A) - Trim accordingly (I have removed one of my heater core pipes so I have not used this hose, not pictured).
Dorman 902-5930 (Blue) - Point towards the alternator.
I had to splice a bleed port into the upper/driver-side hose. I built my own, however there are off-the-shelf hose joiners with a threaded port. The hose joiner size needed would be 32mm. There’s definitely a better way to do this, but I have not experimented with other hoses yet although I intend to. If I find a better solution for this hose, I will update this guide. It would also be possible to tee this bleeder port into the expansion tank. Omitting a bleed port in this location will airlock the cooling system and prevent flow from exiting the head. I had a horrendous time trying to bleed my cooling system without this port.
If you don't want to use an expansion tank, you can add a radiator cap splice to the upper/driver's side hose and route an overflow hose to the stock MR2 overflow tank. The preferred option is still the expansion tank, as it keeps the system under constant pressure and efficiently removes air. However, the radiator cap splice doubles as a bleed and fill point in one package.
The stock tC hose measures around 1.3in in diameter. A splice close to that size should suffice.
Instead of using the stock 2AR 2-pin coolant temp sensor, you'll need to grab a 3-pin coolant temp sensor. Pins 1 and 2 from the stock connector go to pins 1 and 2 on the replacement connector, and pin 3 goes to the chassis integration connectors and sends a signal to the gauge cluster. This threads into the same place as the stock 2AR coolant sensor at the back of the head. If you are using the Woodsport WASP harness there will be an adapter provided for you.
Toyota 89422-22030 or ACDelco Professional 19322820 work. If you are doing the wiring yourself the connector is 90980-11451.
Intake System
The entire stock intake system from the Scion tC must be installed. No modifications are allowed to this part but it all fits in the SW20 without any hassle. I found my intake system at a local LKQ. There are often whole assemblies on eBay for sale as well.
A bracket will be needed to be made in order to mount the bottom of the air box to the car.
Air Cleaner Part Numbers
Assembly - 17700-36211
Cap - 17705-36041
Rubber Elbow - 17881-36080
Fender Inlet - 17751-36020
Filter - 17801-31120
Breather Union - 90904-06008
MAF - 22204-0T040, 22204-28010, 22204-0V010, or 22204-0V020
Exhaust System
The stock Scion tC exhaust manifold and B-pipe must be used in the swap. Amazingly, both fit the SW20 chassis without modification. The front motor mount may need a slight grind in order to clear the exhaust manifold flange.
OEM Part Numbers
2011-2013 Scion tC Exhaust Manifold 25051-36010 or 2014-2016 Scion tC Exhaust Manifold 25051-36180
2011-2016 Scion tC Mid-Pipe 17410-36160
Exhaust Manifold Gasket 171730V010 or FEL-PRO MS97234
OEM Exhaust Manifold to Mid-Pipe Gasket 17451-28040 or FEL-PRO 61106
OEM Exhaust Manifold to Mid-Pipe Bolt/Spring DORMAN 675221
Upstream O2 sensor (Manifold) Denso 234-9114
Downstream O2 sensor (Mid-pipe) Denso 234-4624
Rear Catalytic Converter
Because the Scion tC had a clean-up cat downstream of the exhaust manifold, we need to place a catalytic converter in the same linear position. Those who have purchased an entire donor chassis can simply take that clean-up cat off their tC, modify it slightly and bolt it onto the B-pipe. For those who pieced it together like me, I suggest buying Walker Exhaust CalCat Carb 84200. This cat has a CARB EO and is legal to use in California on the Scion tC.
Rear Cat Placement
The rear cat on the Scion tC is about 6 inches from the flange that bolts to the B-pipe. Rule e. section ii. states, “On the other devices (rear catalyst, DPF, DOC, SCR, etc.) within 12 inches of the stock configuration.” This means that there is roughly 24” of room to place the cat. On the MR2, I found it most convenient at roughly the stock position. (See below)
Here is the 2014 Scion tC rear cat placement. The 2011-2013 Scion tC model has a slightly different placement however it’s only within an inch or so of the 2014-2016.
And here is my rear cat placement with the Walker EO cat. Within an inch or two of the 2014-2016 Scion tC rear cat position. Excuse the booger welds.
That’s it for the exhaust! Just a simple welding job to get the new cat in.
AC System
There are probably many ways to do the AC system with the 2AR, but I think I’ve found a pretty easy solution to it.
Note, like the 2GR, there is no A/C idle up without adding external VSV's or spoofing CAN messages. This leads to a very low idle when the AC compressor is on. There may be a solution to this in the future.AC Compressor: Denso 471-1413
AC Bracket: Toyota 12502-0V040
AC Bracket Hardware: 4 x Toyota 90105-A0127
AC Compressor Hardware: 4 x M8x1.25 70mm
Remove the two studs on the AC bracket and use two bolts instead. Leaving the studs in will prevent the removal of the AC compressor when the engine is installed in the chassis.
Low-Pressure (Thick) Hose: Four Seasons 55189
Low-Pressure Fitting: Cold Hose RB1327
High-Pressure (Thin) Hose: Four Seasons 66590
High-Pressure Fitting: Cold Hose RB1322
Four Seasons 55189 (Blue), Four Seasons 66590 (Gold)
Hoses
Note, all of these hoses will need to be trimmed and bent to fit. These images aren't entirely to scale, but they give an idea of what needs to be removed and test fitted. Please refer to the measurements below for more accuracy.
Four Seasons 66590 will need about 14.5in from the compressor end into the new chassis side fitting.
Four Seasons 55189 will need about 7in from the compressor end into the new chassis side fitting.
Please test fit and measure your hoses before you cut them to length.
AC Compressor
For the AC compressor, you will need to relocate the stud on the lower port to the lower position.
The accessory belt to use with the swap is just the stock 2AR-FE accessory belt. GATES K060494 for example.
Note about using a tC harness here: the Denso 471-1413 AC compressor uses a different electrical connector than what the 2AR harnesses come with. This is a simple fix. Find the 2 pin connector from the tC, remove pin 2, typically a light green wire, install a new terminal and seal, and insert into pin 3 of the replacement connector. Use plugs to seal the empty positions 1 and 2. Remove pin 1 from the original connector and use heat shrink to seal it off, it will go unused. This goes to BA2 pin 4 on the tC harness, you need to connect it to EA3 pin 16 on the MR2 harness. If you are using the WASP harness, this is already done for you.
Parts shopping list:
Connector: Ballenger CONN-100962 (Toyota 90980-11016)
Terminal: Ballenger CONN-11856 (Sumitomo TS / SL 0.5 - 1.25 mm2)
Seal: Ballenger CONN-00145 (Sumitomo HM / MT / TS wire seal)
Plug: Ballenger CONN-100550 (Sumitomo MT / TS / HX / SL Cavity Plug)
You will have the original 3 pin connector left over from this, you can either zip tie it out of the way or go through the effort of removing all 3 wires from the harness.
General Timeline of the Swap
The Swap Itself
Swap the 2AR-FE into your SW20 using this guide.
Confirm ALL Your Monitors Are Working
Confirm that ALL of your monitors are functioning correctly and passing and that there are absolutely no fault codes on the ECU. It may take a few drive cycles in order for the monitors to confirm their readiness. The EVAP monitor will also need a day or two to run the overnight test.
Get Your Invoice and Get in Contact With the Referee’s Office
Get your ECU invoice from a Toyota dealership and call the referee office at 1-800-622-7733. They can set you up with a referee that will then go over what you have done to your vehicle and will confirm that you have completed the correct steps. After that, they can schedule you for a referee inspection.
Referee Inspection
The big day! Hopefully, all things are in order. The inspection took me about an hour and a half to complete. The inspection is just a very in-depth smog check, including a rolling sniffer test. If everything checks out, and the car blows clean, you’ll get your sticker.
Enjoy!
If you got your sticker congrats! Now go enjoy your 173 of CA legal horsepower.
Sample Report
I wrote a report to document all my progress, and to provide proof for the work that I did to the referees. This is not a requirement, but it makes the lives of the referees easier. Here is a sample version of my report.
Diagrams
Electrical
2011 tC Engine Control EWD (same for 2011-2016)
Engine
2011 tC 2AR Engine Disassembly
Here are several diagrams. More can be found if you check out Frankenstein Motorwork’s Discord. There are also some people in there who can address questions about the swap.
Shopping List
2AR-FE Engine
FMW E-series clutch kit or Southbend S54/3SGTE K16062/16073-HD-O clutch kit
Transmission Hardware
ACT Prolite #600390 or stock Scion tC flywheel
ARP 103-2201 Pressure Plate Bolts
ARP 103-2801 Flywheel Bolts
Woodsport Scion TC 2ar-fe full patch wiring harness (for Sw20, Aw11)
Stock tC Manual Transmission ECU
MAF Sensor 22204-28010 or 22204-0V010.
OEM Toyota Manifold (2011-2013) 25051-36010 or (2014-2016) 25051-36180
OEM Toyota Mid-Pipe 17410-36160
Walker Exhaust CalCat Carb 84200 or the catalytic converter from the Scion tC center exhaust pipe.
Fuel Pump Hanger Seal - Toyota 77169-17010
Fuel Tank Filler Neck Seal - Toyota 77178-20010
Fuel Tank Level Sender Seal - Toyota 77169-14020
Fuel Tank Breather Seals x 2 Needed - Toyota 77179-26010
Fuel Tank Regulator of Your Choice
Scion tC Gas Cap - Toyota 77300-53020
Canister Filter - Toyota 77745-0E010
Scion tC EVAP Canister - 77740-21020
Upstream Denso 234-9114
Downstream Denso 234-4624
Water Neck: Dorman 902-5930
Lower/Passenger Hose: GATES 22556
Upper/Drivers Hose: GATES 21760
Heater Return: GATES 19306
Heater Feed: GATES 28469
AC Compressor: Denso 471-1413
AC Bracket: Toyota 360102213
Accessory Belt: GATES K060494
Low-Pressure (Thick) Hose: Four Seasons 55189
Low-Pressure Fitting: Cold Hose RB1322
High-Pressure (Thin) Hose: Four Seasons 66590
High-Pressure Fitting: Cold Hose RB1327
Special Thanks
Big thanks to Brayden for letting me host this on his site and for his valuable input in the write-up.
Another huge thanks to the group over in the Frankenstein Motorworks Discord server. Without them, I wouldn’t have considered taking this project on and getting a BAR legal 2AR. Thanks yall!
